drift, perspectives in surfing

She’s a fickle mistress the sea. And like the worst of them, when you’ve had enough and are ready to walk away, she’ll draw you right back in, only deeper than before.

Contrary to popular belief, it gets cold in Africa–really cold. As the sun slips behind the mountain casting Muizenberg into deep shadow, the temperature drops dramatically and the kids, shivering in their threadbare wetsuits, decide it’s time to draw our first ever session to a close.

I think I have finally grasped the concept of the Surf Contest. And I have Kelly Slater to thank for it.

It all started on the boardwalk at Jeffrey’s Bay, South Africa. I’d been staying down the coast at Plettenberg Bay with a friend of mine, John, and he’d seen the swell a mile off.

I find myself here, on the West Coast of Africa, alone in search of something different.